CHECK FOR NORMAL VITAL SIGNS
It is essential to know the normal temperature, pulse, and breathing rate of your cat in order to accurately judge
the severity of illness or injury. Cats vary, as people do, but these are general guidelines:
Temperature 100.4 F - 102.5 F
Pulses 160-240 per minute
Respirations 20-30 per minute
For a reference point, you should determine these rates for your cat when it is healthy and keep a record in your
first-aid kit. Excitement or exercise will increase the normal rates, as in humans, so your most valid measurements
will be obtained when the cat is at rest. A good time to measure normal pulse and respiration is when you and your
pet are relaxing together in the course of a normal day.
To find the pulse, press y our first two fingers against the inside of the upper hind leg, where the large femoral
artery is found. Count the pulse for at least sixty seconds. You can also see or feel the heartbeat on the chest
wall directly behind the cat's "elbow." In an emergency situation, the heartbeat or pulse should be taken
and reported to the veterinarian. An extremely fast pulse indicates a state of shock. A weak pulse indicates a
dire situation, which should receive immediate veterinary attention.
To determine the breathing rate or respiration, watch the cat's chest movement. Count either inhalations or exhalations
(not both) for one minute. Rapid breathing can indicate shock or lack of oxygen. Labored breathing may be a clue
that there is an obstruction. Shallow breathing is a sign of weakness or chest pain. Irregular breathing is a very
serious sign, calling for an immediate veterinary examination. Among the many problems it could indicate are fractured
ribs and punctured or collapsed lung.
Unless your cat is unusually docile, you will need a helper to hold it while you take its temperature.
HOW TO RESTRAIN AN INJURED CAT
Injured cats often do not recognize their owners, whom they normally trust. Nor do they understand the concern
and help that people are trying to give them. Cats in pain are afraid and do not understand the source of that
pain. Their natural instincts are to escape and hide; if they cannot, they will strike out at anyone who approaches
to avoid a repetition of the incident that caused the pain.
Veterinarians can use medicine, tranquilizers, sedatives, and anesthetics to alleviate the suffering of a cat.
First aid is the process necessary to get the cat to the veterinarian.
In general, the cat is a very independent creature. Its personality necessitates forcible restraint, or confinement
to an area where it thinks it is free but is not. An injured cat may wound anyone offering medical assistance by
biting, or by scratching with any of its four feet. It is almost impossible to muzzle a cat, so one must avoid
the mouth area. Restraint of the feet is important.
To humanely "disarm" the cat's claws, secure the two front legs together, just above the feet, by winding
adhesive tape around them two or three times. Then fasten the rear legs together in a similar manner. Hold the
head firmly. The cat can now be examined and treated carefully and effectively.
Actually, the cat is usually a bluffer and will respond well to confident but firm handling. It is also forgetful
and forgiving. If a cat becomes angry at forced treatment, release it. Soon it will once again be docile and approachable.
Picking Up or Carrying a Cat
1. Reassure the cat. Talk to it quietly, gently stroke its head and ears, and run your hand down its back.
2. With you hand over the cat's head and your elbow over its tail move your hand under its chest (sternum) and
lift, with the cat's lower body resting on your forearm and snuggled against your body. The other hand can either
grasp the scruff of the cat's neck or cradle its chin.
3. Transport a cat in a basket, cat carrier, or cloth bag, such as a pillowcase or burlap bag, tied closed. The
cat cannot see out and will feel snug and secure. If the head is to be examined, or oral medication is to be given,
loosen he bag and expose only the head; this effectively restrains the rest of the patient in the bag.
Restraining Unruly or Aggressive Cats
1. In most instances an unruly or biting cat can be controlled with a folded blanket or thick towel. Drop the blanket
over the cat in its box or cage and pick up the animal inside the blanket. With the cat rolled in the blanket and
only a foot or the head protruding, you can apply medication or bandages without danger to either the patient or
the handler.
2. Use thick leather or canvas work gloves when handling an aggressive cat. When cats scratch and bite, the wounds
are severe. They will almost always attack the face or hands. Place obstreperous patients in a strong bag or cat
box and take them to the veterinarian, where drugs can be used for restraint. This is safer, wiser, and more humane.
WHAT TO DO ABOUT CHOKING
Warning; Choking is one of the signs of the signs of rabies. If a strange cat appears to be choking but has no
obvious injury, rabies is a possibility. The same is true of any cat that has not been vaccinated. If you do not
know the cat, stay away from it and call the nearest animal control center.
If the cat is one you know and you believe that an object, such as a bone, might be in its throat and obstructing
the cat's breathing, reach in with your fingers or tweezers and try to remove it. If the blockage is further down,
lay the cat on its side, place the heel of your hand just behind the last rib, angling slightly upward, and push
firmly, but not so firmly as to break the ribs. Four quick thrusts should dislodge the obstruction; if not, try
again. If unsuccessful, take the cat to a veterinarian.
COPING WITH BREATHING DIFFICULTIES
Any foreign object in the nasal passages, throat, trachea, or bronchi can physically prevent the flow of air into
the lungs. Penetrating chest wounds can result in collapsed lunges. Any tearing of the diaphragm, which normally
acts to expand the lungs, will also interfere with effective breathing.
Look for these signs to determine if the cat is in respiratory distress:
1. Mucous membranes (gums and lining of the eyelids) may be pale or blue in color (cyanotic), indicating poor circulation
or inadequate oxygenation of the blood.
2. Labored respiration may occur: gasping, openmouthed breathing, or slow, shallow breathing. A cat in sudden respiratory
distress, as from choking, may paw at its face.
3. The cat may be unconscious, with dilated pupils.
If the respiratory problem is caused by something other that simple obstruction, you must resort to artificial
respiration.
Artificial Respiration
Remove the cat's collar, open the mouth, and pull the tongue forward so that it does not block the throat. Pull
the head and neck forward, then put your hands on the ribs, push down suddenly, and release. This drives the stale
air out of the lungs, and an elastic recoil mechanism will allow them to fill once more. Repeat about once every
five seconds.
If the chest cavity has been punctured, the elastic recoil mechanism will not be working, and you will have to
actually blow air into the lungs. Hold the cat's mouth and lips closed, put your mouth over its nose and blow firmly
into the nostrils for about three seconds. Watch the chest carefully. Blowing too hard can cause lung damage. After
a two-second rest, repeat. Keep this up for thirty minutes or more, or until the animal has begun breathing on
its own, or has been pronounced dead by a veterinarian. The cat's progress can be monitored by checking the color
of its gums. If it begins to fight the procedure, breathing is improving.
WHEN BREATHING AND HEARTBEAT STOP (CPR)
Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation (CPR)
CPR is an important lifesaving technique that has become widely accepted for humans through classes offered by
the Red Cross and other groups. These same techniques may "breath" life back into a seemingly lifeless
pet.
CPR provides short-term, artificial breathing and heart contractions for an unconscious animal whose breathing
and heartbeat have stopped. CPR sustains the animal until it can perform these functions again on its own. An animal
can suffer respiratory and heart failure from a traumatic experience, such as being hit by a car, ingesting a toxic
material, or from shock.
An animal is considered unconscious if it is unresponsive to stimuli, such as pinching and shaking. So not perform
CPR on an animal that has a heartbeat. Do not perform artificial breathing on an animal that is already breathing
unless the breathing is very shallow. These techniques could injure the animal if it is breathing normally or has
a heartbeat.
Breathing can be determined visually as the chest rises and falls during inhalation and exhalation. Feel the heartbeat
by placing your fingers on the left side of the chest wall, above the point of the elbow. Visual signs of an absence
of heartbeat include fully dilated eyes and cool, grayish-blue gums. Feel the heartbeat on a healthy cat to become
familiar with the sensation.
Artificial Breathing. If the animal is not breathing but has a heartbeat, then only artificial breathing is needed.
Heart Contractions. If there is no heartbeat or respiration, cardiopulmonary arrest has occurred and CPR must be
administered. It consists of compressing the heart while administering artificial breathing. Both therapies are
applied, one immediately following the other. A rhythm must develop between continual heart compressions and artificial
breathing technique.
1. With your free hand place the thumb on the cat's chest at the point of the elbow and your fingers on the opposite
side of the chest cavity for compression.
2. Squeeze gently, but firmly, at a rate of one compression per second.
3. After five cardiac compressions, follow with artificial breathing without breaking the rhythm of the cardiac
compressions.
Another variation is to place the animal on its right side on a firm surface. Place one hand under the body and
the other hand above it, so the entire upper chest area is enclosed. Use both hands to compress. Compress the chest
five times, then move one hand to the nose and mouth and administer reparation once; the repeat.
Continue CPR for a few minutes, while observing the animal for signs of life, such as spontaneous respiratory efforts
or a heartbeat. If breathing and heart rate are not restored, continue CPR up to fifteen minutes. After fifteen
minutes, revival is unlikely. If at all possible, have someone drive you to the veterinarian while you continue
giving CPR.
Caution: Severe cardiopulmonary complications may result if you attempt CPR on a conscious, breathing animal.
HOW TO CONTROL BLEEDING
Injuries to the soft tissue include cuts, lacerations, abrasions, and abscesses. To control bleeding, first try
the direct-pressure technique. Place a clean, preferably sterile, gauze pad directly over the wound and apply firm,
even pressure. If blood soaks through the gauze, do not remove it, or your may disrupt any clot that has begun
to form. Just place another pad on top and continue to apply pressure. If a limb is injured, it may help to elevate
it, but do this with care to avoid causing further damage to possible fractures.
If direct pressure does not stop the bleeding, try indirect pressure on the arteries supplying the area. The useful
pressure points on a cat are inside the upper surface of the forelimb and hindlimb and at the underside of the
base of the tail. Very firm pressure to these areas will reduce the amount of bleeding from those respective extremities.
If neither type of manual pressure controls the bleeding from a leg or tail wound, you may apply a tourniquet as
a last resort. Avoid this step unless absolutely necessary, for gangrene (death and decay of tissue) may result
if a tourniquet is left on too long. Never apply a tourniquet around the neck. The procedure for applying a tourniquet
is:
1. Use a one-inch-wide gauze bandage roll; wrap twice around the limb or tail, between the wound and the body,
about tow inches from the wound. Do not use a narrower bandage or a string. It will cut into the underlying skin.
2. Tie a half hitch (one tie of the line) in the bandage, put a pencil or stick on top, and tie a square knot above.
3. Twist slowly until the bleeding slows to a trickle. Fasten the stick in place by tying or taping gently. The
tourniquet should be released briefly every ten to fifteen minutes.
4. Cover the wound lightly with sterile gauze.
Once a tourniquet is in place, take the cat to a veterinarian without delay. If the tourniquet must remain in place
over fifteen minutes, release it for one minute for every fifteen minutes it is in place, the retighten. Watch
for shock.
Closed or internal wounds are harder to detect and therefor harder to treat. They may appear as contusions (bruises)
or hematomas (swollen areas filled with blood). Internal wounds may be suspected if the cat is bleeding from the
mouth or anus, vomits or defecates blood, or is in a coma or state of shock with no signs of external injury. Emergency
treatment consists of keeping an airway open, treating for shock, immobilizing fractures, and seeing a veterinarian
as soon as possible.
SOFT-TISSUE INJURIES
Less serious wounds can be treated as follows: Wash hands thoroughly and restrain the cat. First smear a bit of
ointment or petroleum jelly around the wound area, so the hair will stick together and not fall into the wound
as you clip the fur away with scissors. Next, clean the wound carefully, first with water and then with an antiseptic.
Wet a cotton swab or gauze pad and clean the wound by washing gently from the center of the injured area, working
outward. When the cotton swab becomes soiled, throw it away and use a fresh one to prevent contaminating the antiseptic
with dirt from the wound.
Safe antiseptics for cats include hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, Bactine, dilute Betadine, and iodine. After cleaning,
blot away any excess water gently with a sterile gauze pad and apply a suitable antibiotic, such as nitrofurazone,
iodine, Merthiolate, or Bacitracin. Cover the ointment wit a sterile gauze pad and bandage. Be sure the dressing
is taped carefully in place so the cat cannot easily reach the loose ends and untie it. Keep the bandage clean
and dry, changing it every other day so that you can monitor the healing process. See a veterinarian if you suspect
the wound is deep enough to require suturing (stitches). The sooner the veterinarian sees the wound, the better
the chances for a surgical closure.
Abscesses
Wounds, especially bite or puncture wounds, are very prone to infection and formation of abscesses. Often, the
first evidence that a cat has been in a fight is the hard, hot, painful swelling of an abscess appearing some time
after the fact; the initial bite may have caused a small-undetected hole.
Clip the fur around an abscess and clean the skin as described above. "Hot-pack" the area with a clean
towel soaked in a solution made from a pint of hot water with two teaspoons of salt added. The water should be
as warm as possible without being uncomfortable. Hold the compress on for ten to fifteen minutes as often as possible,
the ideal being every two hours. Reheat the solution each time. The abscess may open, and pus should drain from
the area within a day or two. When it does, rinse the wound with the salt solution, apply and antibiotic, and bandage
the area loosely so as not to prevent drainage. It is wise to take any cat with an abscess to the veterinarian;
particularly if the procedure described above has not resulted in drainage. The infection may have to be opened
surgically and drained, and systemic antibiotics may be prescribed.
Deep Puncture Wounds
Deep puncture wounds to the chest are extremely hazardous. The great danger is that air or blood will enter the
chest cavity through the wound, replacing the normal vacuum with a positive pressure that will collapse the lungs
and cause the cat to suffocate within minutes. Try to cover this type of wound with an airtight seal, such as plastic
or gauze. Do not try to remove the penetration object (such as a garden stake), or you may allow more air to enter.
Leave the object in place and treat for shock until you can get the cat to your veterinarian. Prompt attention
is mandatory.
Eyes
Eyes are very delicate organs. Any injury to them should receive veterinary attention. The most important things
you can do are:
1. Stop any bleeding. Use direct pressure with a gauze pad placed over the eye.
2. Keep the surface of the eye moist with contact lens solution olive oil, or water.
3. Cover the eye lightly with sterile gauze.
4. Take the cat immediately to the veterinarian.
SHOCK
Shock is often difficult to recognize because it may not appear until after an accident, as much as eight to ten
hours later, when the cat is no longer being watched closely. In shock, the volume of circulating blood is decreased
or the blood vessels collapse, and the heart loses much of its ability to pump blood. This decreases the oxygen
supply to the tissues. The body tries to compensate by speeding up the blood flow, increasing the oxygen flow to
the blood, and reducing or shutting off blood flow to nonvital organs. The signs of shock, listed below, reflect
these changes:
1. Decrease in or loss of consciousness
2. Pale mucous membranes (gums, rims of the eyes, etc.)
3. Body feels cold to touch
4. Feeble and rapid pulse (greater than 240 per minute)
5. Shallow and labored, but rapid breathing (greater than 40 per minute)
6. Inability to stand (sometimes, but not always)
7. Involuntary passage of urine and/or feces (not always)
Prompt supportive therapy must begin immediately if the cat is to recover from this collapse of the circulatory
system. First stop the bleeding and give artificial respiration if breathing has stopped. Provide a warm, quiet
environment and use cardiopulmonary resuscitation if needed. Make sure the cat is positioned on its side, with
head lower than the rest of the body, so that gravity can assist blood flow to the brain. If the heart seems to
be working on its own, massage the leg and trunk muscles to encourage blood return from these areas.
A cat in shock will frequently be thirsty, but giving it water could be dangerous. In severe shock, the digestive
tract will not efficiently absorb water. A semiconscious cat may accidentally inhale rather than swallow water.
The most effective way of increasing blood volume is by intravenous transfusion, which must be administered by
a veterinarian.
INJURIES TO BONES
Fractures and dislocations usually are not life threatening, unless they cause severe bleeding, interfere with
breathing (as broken ribs may do), or crush a vital part of the spinal cord or brain. However, prompt immobilization
of a fracture is important to prevent a simple break from turning into a compound fracture (one that breaks through
the skin) or complicated fracture (one that may damage internal organs). A severe fracture also may cause shock;
and complications of infection can lead to blood poisoning.
Recognizing a broken bone can be difficult. A cat with a broken leg will show pain and inability to use the leg.
There may be swelling around the fracture site, or the cat might hold its leg at an unusual angle or show an unusual
range of motion in the middle of a leg rather than at a joint. A sensation called "crepitus," a suggestion
of grating or scraping, can be felt when the leg is moved gently. With spinal injuries, the cat will often be unable
to use its legs. It is crucial to avoid aggravating the damage with movement or manipulation. If a break is suspected,
do not try to verify it by physical manipulation. Immobilize the affected area, if possible, and quickly, gently,
transport the cat to a veterinarian.
The most direct method of immobilizing a fractured leg is to apply a splint. Almost any long, stiff object can
be used in an emergency. A simple cylinder of newspaper or a towel wrapped around the leg may suffice. When using
sticks, there must be two, one on the inside and one on the outside of the leg. Any hard object used should be
padded so that it does not chafe the leg. A splint will only be effective if it extends past and immobilizes the
joints above and below the injury. Tape the support in place, taking care not to make it so tight that it cuts
off the circulation.
Fractures of the vertebral column and skull are serious, but these areas cannot be splinted. Place the cat in a
padded box to avoid any unnecessary movement of the cat's body and head and take it to a veterinarian promptly.
Additional care is needed to prevent bacteria from entering the wound of a compound fracture. Do not push the broken
edges of bone back together. Just cover the injury with a sterile cloth and apply the splint as previously described.
Your veterinarian will do a more thorough cleanup and setting of the fracture site once the cat's condition has
stabilized.